As dawn breaks over the Indian Ocean, gentle waves caress the golden shores while palm fronds sway in the cool sea breeze. This is the Mogadishu that Sucdi Abdul Fattah Abdul Khader wants the world to see, a far cry from the suicide attacks and armed militants that often dominate headlines about Somalia's capital.
At just 23, Sucdi is part of a growing movement of local guides leading visitors beyond the negative stereotypes to discover Mogadishu's hidden gems, from its stunning beaches to its rich history and vibrant culture.
A Personal Connection
Her favorite spot is Jazeera beach, where tourists can bask in the sun before exploring the nearby sand dunes that remind some of the Sahara Desert. "It's one of the top attractions we show our guests. It's a beautiful place," she says.
But Sucdi's tours go beyond scenic beauty. She takes visitors to the bustling fish market, where they can witness the incredible variety of marine life along Somalia's extensive coastline. They also explore historical sites that reflect the city's legacy as a thriving Indian Ocean trading hub, influenced by Ottoman and Italian rule. And no tour is complete without a taste of Somali cuisine, including camel meat, samosas, and traditional tea.
Many visitors arrive with preconceived notions shaped by years of media coverage focused on insecurity. "Mostly, they are surprised by how beautiful the country is and how welcoming the people are," Sucdi notes. At the fish market, she adds, visitors are particularly impressed by the diversity of fish species.
A Family Tradition
Guiding runs in Sucdi's family. Her father worked as a tour guide for over three decades, showing journalists, photographers, and travelers from around the world the wonders of Somalia. He introduced her to the business nearly three years ago.
"I started this job as a hobby, but it has become something I love and am passionate about," she says. Now, she works alongside her father and a team of guides, building on his experience while using social media to reach a wider audience. She shares videos of her tours on TikTok, giving people outside Somalia a glimpse of places they might never have imagined visiting. She is also considering creating content in English to reach non-Somali speakers.
Challenges and Opportunities
Tourism is still a relatively new field in Somalia, with only a handful of guides operating in Mogadishu. The business is seasonal, but Sucdi says this year has been particularly encouraging, even though numbers remain low. Five tourists a week is considered a success, but she is confident that numbers will grow.
However, security concerns persist. Since the collapse of Somalia's central government in 1991, Mogadishu has endured decades of civil war, destruction, and displacement. Much of the city center was reduced to rubble, and basic services and infrastructure largely broke down. But following the withdrawal of the Islamist militant group al-Shabab from most of the city in 2011 and the establishment of the federal government in 2012, Mogadishu has undergone a gradual transformation.
Returning members of the Somali diaspora, local entrepreneurs, and investors have fueled a construction boom, with new hotels, restaurants, businesses, and residential developments reshaping the capital. Today, Mogadishu is a growing commercial hub, although insecurity and the legacy of conflict remain part of everyday life.
According to the country's tourism department, about 10,000 tourists visited Somalia in 2024, a 50% increase from the previous year. Many visitors ask about safety before traveling and often encounter security checkpoints around the city. But Sucdi says their experience on the ground is generally positive.
"What they heard from the news and everywhere else is not the same as what they see in the country," she says.
Changing Perceptions
Although some question whether Mogadishu is safe enough for a young woman to work as a tour guide, Sucdi is determined to continue. She wants visitors to experience a Somalia that is rarely seen.
"I would want them to see the beautiful, welcoming side of Mogadishu, and not the side that they heard from the media, which is explosions and bombs," she says.
Somalia boasts Africa's longest mainland coastline, stretching over 3,000km along the Indian Ocean and Gulf of Aden. Its beaches and sand dunes sit alongside historic coastal cities like Mogadishu, whose culture reflects centuries of Indian Ocean trade. For some tourists, the contrast between the country's reputation and what they experience can be striking.
American travel content creator Chris Reese, known as Authentic Travelling, has visited Mogadishu twice. His first trip, almost a year ago, was a solo visit. He enjoyed it so much that he decided to return with a group of friends who had seen videos of his visit on social media.
"I had such a positive experience - I really enjoyed seeing the country for the first time - that I opted to bring back a group of my friends," he says. What stands out for Chris is the city's coastal setting, its food, and atmosphere. "It is such a beautiful tropical place. I love the vibe, the weather, and the food," he says.
During the group's visit, they enjoy lunch overlooking the Indian Ocean before heading out to explore the beaches and sand dunes. "The desert is beautiful and picturesque. It is also amazing that it's barely a 30-minute drive from Mogadishu," he says.
Before his first trip, Chris says, much of what he knew about Somalia came from international news coverage. "If you only read the news reports about Somalia, you would be scared to visit. And honestly, that's what I saw in the media before I came, mostly negative headlines." But visiting the country challenged those perceptions. "Coming here, on my very first trip, showed me that there is so much more to this country than what is shown in the headlines," he says.
Romanian Mihaela Patap loves Somalia's natural beauty. Although she has spent only a few hours in Mogadishu, she has already visited the sand dunes and taken in the Indian Ocean coastline. "The desert was so beautiful to see. I have also enjoyed the beach, and the ocean. It is inspiring," she says. Having traveled to Somalia from neighboring Ethiopia, she says she has been struck by the people's friendliness. "I don't see anything dangerous. I feel safe and the people are warm," she says.
An experienced traveler, Mihaela says she prefers to visit new countries without having preconceived ideas. "I travel the world to see new places, to see countries, to see the differences. I don't take a picture in my mind to compare the reality with. I'm just expecting the new to come to me," she says. She hopes to share her experience and encourage others to visit Somalia. "I'm going to post my pictures and say good things about what I'm experiencing. I'm going to promote it," she says.
Sucdi is continuing a family profession while building a business in an industry with few women and using digital platforms to reach audiences far beyond Mogadishu. "Somalia still has a long way to go before tourism becomes a major industry," she says. "Through my tours, I am giving visitors an opportunity to experience its landscapes, our culture, and people beyond the familiar negative headlines." For her, every visitor is another opportunity to tell a fuller story of Mogadishu.
